12/21/2023 0 Comments Chopper 2 nwsl![]() The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you. And that's how much I use my Chopper II - the pivot arm is worn loose!!! This cheat creates just enough friction to keep the arm raised and in-place and won't interfere with the normal downward cutting leverage. However- my fix has been to slide a thin piece of card stock into the space between the cutting handle arm and the arm's cast yoke, just adjacent to the pin (only on one side). PS I just thought of one other "issue" with the Chopper II.Īfter several years of usage, the pivot for the Chopper's arm loosens and the blade will succumb to gravity- usually when one is positioning wood under it's edge! There is no easy way to fix this the pivot pin can't be easily replaced. ![]() ![]() Quality power tools like Byrnes, Proxxon, even Dremel (et al) are wonderful.however, approximately 95% of my building is with specialized hand tools like the Chopper II. Most will be aware of this fact: if one is in the slightest hurry or, not paying FULL ATTENTION, this tool can be wickedly dangerous because of the exposed blade and the tendency to reach under it when picking out small pieces that have been "chopped." I've gotten a couple nasty "slices" that have reminded me to treat this handy (and I believe essential) little tool with Mucho Respecto! Just remember to tighten the screw down securely each time and WATCH YOUR FINGERS. Other tip: flip the cutting mat over when slight grooves in the silkscreened top surface make the blade "wander" and thus, less accurate. The simple set screw makes this an easy and quick task. I'll add two more tips: the blade's primary cutting surface is within the last 1/4" or so, near the tool's reference "fence." When the blade dulls, turn it around! Bingo - new blade. The company is very responsive and their online ordering is fast I have ordered new cutting mats (they are inexpensive) and a supply of blades is nearby as I frequently change them. cut halfway, flip the stock over, or - make four cuts on square stock and/or - hold from the stopped side to prevent blade flexing) are all techniques I use. It can cut slightly thicker stock and many of the tips mentioned here (e.g. The tool is well made and perfect for cutting THIN sections ( like 1-2 mm thick strip wood). This would be a perfect opportunity to remark that one needs to "use the right tool for the right job." I've recently gifted a colleague of a Chopper II for his Birthday building a large-scale English capital warship means he's got a lot of planking ahead of him! But to be fair, I don't own one.įor bigger jobs (over 2mm and wider than 4mm) I do use a miniature table saw. ![]() The Chopper II is one of my most used hand tools. So, it seems the thing to do is get the right hand tools (plus the Dremel rotary) to build the best possible models from kits. If I could realistically look forward to another 20 years or more of modelling, I'd almost certainly purchase the full line of Jim Byrnes power tools and really get into it. It further appears that the NWSL folks believe that MM unfairly copied their "Chopper"and are selling an inferior knock-off (see hornet 3/26/15 post).īecause I find the MM "Chop-It" unsatisfactory, today I ordered the NWSL "Chopper II" Product review to follow after it arrives. The MM "Chop-It" appears remarkably similar to the NWSL "Chopper". It was only about a week ago in following an MSW thread that I learned that NorthWest Short Line (as the name implies, supplying railroad modelers) sells "The Chopper" and "Chopper II". The way the blades fit, they appear to be specially made. This results in bending the piece before it is cut. The consequence of these two factors is that after brief use, the fiberboard is deeply scored. The way the cutting arm is attached results in a slight, inherent wobble. The base of the "Chop-It" appears to be fiberboard. A couple of years ago I purchased the Micro-Mark "Chop-It", unaware, as with many other things, that there were alternatives for the same function. So as not to pile on Micro-Mark, I'll keep this factual and let everyone draw their own conclusions.
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